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By a quirk of history that goes so far back in time
no one really remembers it, nearly every man, woman
and child in the remote mountain village of Tsovkra-1
can walk the tightrope.
For children in the village on Russia’s southern
fringe, after-school games mean balancing on a wire
suspended one story above the ground.
“I’m not afraid,” 12-year-old Magomed
Gadzhiyev said as he stood in a scruffy field on the
edge of the village. “My mother was a tightrope
walker and I will be too.”
Behind him an eight-year-old girl wearing a pale green
costume gingerly walked across a tightrope about the
height of a single-storey building and the length of
a goods truck. She held a three-meter long pole by her
waist to help her balance but there were no cushions
or mattresses to break a fall.
In its glory years after World War II, Tsovkra-1 provided
tightrope walkers for the Soviet Union’s circuses.
They entertained crowds across the world with daredevil
acrobatics and won the Soviet Union’s highest
award for artists.
That period ended about 30 years ago, but the tradition
never died out, and now the village is trying to revive
its reputation as a world tightrope walking centre.
Tsovkra-1 — so called because there is a second
Tsovkra nearby — is a farming village in Dagestan,
a republic jammed between Chechnya to the west and the
Caspian Sea to the east in Russia’s turbulent
north Caucasus region.
From Makhachkala, the dirty, sprawling Dagestani capital,
Tsovkra is a four-hour drive along asphalt roads and
then dirt tracks, over jagged mountains and through
steep-sided valleys where villages retain independent
languages and culture.
In the center of the village Nukh Isayev, a wrinkled
72-year-old, sat surveying life. Nearby a simple plaque
commemorated the 17 men and women who made the village
famous throughout the circus world for its tightrope
acrobatics.
“The golden age was from the 1950s through the
1970s,” Isayev said. “The whole world knew
about us then and we could sell out a circus in any
European capital with our tightrope walking skills.”
The village’s two most renowned tightrope walkers
won the Soviet Union’s Artist of the People award,
a prize more likely to be bestowed on writers, painters,
ballet dancers and opera singers.
The Gadzhikubanov family team — a father and
his seven daughters — used to balance on a tightrope
on each others’ shoulders in two columns of four
people.
The villagers’ most popular explanation for centuries
of tightrope walking is that the young men of the village
grew bored with trekking for days to court women in
a village on a neighbouring mountainside, and instead
came up with a shortcut.
They strung a rope from one side of the valley to the
other and hauled themselves across. To show off, the
most daring began to walk the rope and the skill became
a prized test of manhood.
With the rising popularity of the Soviet circus after
World War Two, dozens of the best left to entertain
crowds with their stunts and acrobatics in cities across
the world.
“We had to work hard then, and tightrope walking
was a way of escaping,” Isayev said, a smile creasing
his wrinkled face.
“But now most want to leave the village and,
you see, life now is too good, you can eat and live
well easily.”
As Isayev talked, a hunched old woman passed herding
a donkey weighed down by bundles of hay, two girls ran
in and out of wooden doorways and a swarthy, sun-beaten
man lugged a pitchfork from the fields.
The population of Tsovkra has fallen to 400 from around
3,000 since the 1980s, villagers said.
But 45-year-old Ramazan Gadzhiyev, Magomed’s
father, plans to change that and resurrect Tsovkra’s
reputation. Eight years ago he reopened the tightrope
walking school.
“The world’s best tightrope walkers used
to come from Tsovkra but now they are from China and
Japan,” he said as he stood watching a boy on
the rope.
The boy bounced up and down in the middle of the tightrope.
He crouched down, lay on his back and then gracefully
stood up again and walked to the end of the rope.
“I hope that one day they will be great again,”
Gadzhiyev said. “That Tsovkra’s tightrope
walkers will once again perform in America, Britain
and Japan.”
Courtesy of Reuters. ©Street News Service: www.street-papers.org.
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