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Clouds break and the morning sun strikes the rippling
surface of the lower Duwamish Waterway. Spanning a stretch
of the river, at the southern tip of Harbor Island,
runs the Spokane St. Fishing Bridge. And kneeling upon
it, Lou Tran baits a hook with a dime-sized piece of
shrimp.
He stands and, leaning back slightly, flicks rod and
reel forward, the spooling out of his line accompanied
by a high-pitched phzzzz. The hook plops into the water.
Tran’s gaze follows, his eyes peering into the
river’s flow. He leans on the railing and waits.
“I come out here for the love it,” says
Tran, “for the challenge.”
And to try to catch a few pink salmon before his business
meeting in 30 minutes.
Lured by similar motives, but perhaps under different
time constraints, some 40 men, women, and children focus
on the water coursing out to Elliott Bay. An ethnic
mix of Southeast Asians and Latinos, descendents of
Europe and Africa, and a smattering of Native Alaskans,
they all keep eyes peeled, and hooks ready, for the
flick of silver beneath the surface: the sign of a pink
salmon heading upriver to spawn.
The gathering of fishers hoping to land pinks —
the shortened name for this species of salmon —
is, in a sense, a special event. For while the threatened
Chinook that race to their spawning grounds up the Duwamish
and into the Green River upstream of Auburn have been
doing so for hundreds, if not thousands, of years, the
arrival of pinks is a relatively new and, so far, mysterious
occurrence. Steve Foley, fishery biologist with the
Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW), says
that pinks made their first appearance in the waterway
in 1999. With an internal clock that pushes them to
spawn only every other year in the Lower Duwamish, 2007
represents only the fifth time in the city’s history
the fish have raced past the industrial dense region
and under the fishing bridge. And, says Foley, “This
is a new phenomenon.”
Phenomenon or no, the pinks avoid Tran’s line.
That is, if there are any pinks to be had. Tran says
that in the 30 minutes he’s been out in the morning,
no one’s had any luck. The fishers to his left
and right repeatedly bait hooks and — phzzzz —
cast them out. Several men smoke cigarettes with their
free hands. One man nurses a beer. Two boats filled
with men bob downstream, industrial cranes hulking in
the distance behind them. Limp lines hang in the water.
Minutes pass, with hardly anyone speaking. Then, in
the water separating the bridge and the boaters, someone’s
line tightens. A pink salmon hurls itself above the
surface, its head bent toward tailfin. With a splash,
it drops back into the water. The men turn to see it.
Their bodies stiffen. The lucky fisher grabs on to his
rod and reel. But it’s too late. The pink breaks
free. The fisher’s shoulders go as slack as his
line.
Foley says that for the 2007 pink fishing season, which
opened Sept. 1, the WDFW predicted over a million would
be up for grabs. (By comparison, the WDFW forecast only
30,000 threatened Chinook.) But the bulk of the current
run, he says, has long passed under the bridge, en route
to spawning grounds above Auburn. “Silvers are
starting to enter and they’re starting to pick
up now,” Foley says, “and they’re
more desired than the pinks.”
But Doug, who hails from Kent, wouldn’t mind a
pink at all. Out on the bridge for four hours, he has
yet to land one. Instead, his shrimp-baited hook attracts
shiner perch, a small, silver-and-orange scaled fish
that Doug — who only wanted to use his first name
— pulls up one after the other. He tosses them
right back, saying it’s a bad idea to eat the
fish that live in the Lower Duwamish. “If they’re
a resident fish,” he says with a chuckle, “it’s
best to let them glow in the dark.”
The health of the river’s fish is no laughing
matter. An informational placard at the bridge’s
southern end informs fishers to avoid consuming crustaceans
and bottom-feeders caught in the area, due to the high
concentrations of chemicals and pollutants contained
in their bodies. A small yellow sign placed on the railing
repeats the warning in eight different languages.
Foley says that pinks, which aren’t resident,
are safe for human consumption, given that the fish
themselves have fattened up on algae and krill for two
years in the ocean before returning to their natal riverbeds.
“But they’re not feeding now,” says
Foley. “They’ve got other things on their
minds.”
This doesn’t stop Doug from baiting hook after
hook as soon as the shiner perch dine on the shrimp
he provides. “It doesn’t matter if you catch
anything,” he says, the fisher to his right screwing
up his face in disagreement. The two stare at the water.
Out beyond their hooks, a line goes taut. It’s
the man two down from Doug. At the end of his line,
a curl of silver jumps above the waves. He pulls on
the rod and after a quick dance of give-and-take, he
reels the struggling fish closer to the bridge. The
man between Doug and the lucky fisher readies a net.
The fish is directed inside. Up it comes. Tossed onto
the butt-strewn bridge, it flops at the net-man’s
feet.
“It’s a male,” he says.
Using the sawn-off handle of a hammer, he wallops the
pink once on the crown of its head. And again. The fish
seizes up. Then stops moving. With the quick twist of
a knife, the net-man severs the blood vessels behind
the pink’s gills, on one side, then the other.
He draws the knife down the fish’s belly, from
tail to head. Entrails spill out in coils. The net-man
pulls them free, dropping them in a bucket of standing
water. He washes the pink in the same bucket before
icing the salmon down in a cooler. Blood, brick red
and gleaming, pools on the bridge.
In less than five minutes, the lucky fisher lands another
pink. Brought up by the net-man, the salmon flails for
its life. “A female,” he says, grasping
the hammer handle. Thwack. Thwack. Stillness. The knife.
Gills, gills, belly. Innards. Pushing them aside, he
retrieves two egg sacks, full of roe the color of pumpkin.
By the time the female is clean and on ice, the lucky
fisher has landed his third pink, a male developing
its characteristic dorsal hump. Neighboring fishers
crowd around his piece of bridge, hoping some of what
he has may rub off.
Foley says that pinks in Puget Sound have historically
been a staple salmon of canneries. But their recent
arrival in the Lower Duwamish, in such massive numbers,
represents a great opportunity for those who don’t
have access to boats to head out to open water. “It’s
a different clientele [on the fishing bridge],”
he says, “and that’s great.”
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